Pattern Intricacies

A lot has been said about matching checks and stripes. Many authors, many opinions.

Notice how the stripes match on a slanted pocket? Not an easy one to make.

Even at Button Stance we boasted about perfectly matched flaps on a jacket pockets.

For a tailor, there is something quite satisfying in getting a desired result after having spent a great deal of effort in pursuit of ever-praised matching, a pinnacle of one’s skill and patience.

Pride and joy. Visual coherence.

Haven’t you noticed your eye never gets tired looking at beautiful things?

So what’s the big deal you might ask?

I think it is a matter of visual aesthetics, a way to show off tailor’s skill and your chance as a customer to enjoy a garment which you can be reassured has been made properly, and not just the checks aligned in a perfect formation.

Since we adhere to Savile Row standards, the lining should be set back 1/16" from the edge of a flap. This way it won't be pocking out from underneath.

Of course, there will always be those who favour taking shortcuts (when I see a sign across the front door saying “honest dry cleaners“ I am somehow reluctant to trust them with my suits).

After all, to match perfectly the patterns, even the stripes and especially the checks, it takes time and requires extra length of cloth which means extra cost.

Below is an example of a patch pocket where the checks were matched in both directions, vertically and horizontally. When done correctly the pattern isn't broken and flows through and over the pocket neatly. Considering that there are several layers to be attached together, it is really a matter of a tailor's skill to execute it.

Your experience of owning a bespoke garment should never be compromised. A bespoke garment is an investment after all, so it’s good to be prudent in choosing a high quality one.

Would you buy a car which has uneven gaps around the door panels? Wouldn’t you think if the manufacturer didn’t care about the visual aesthetics, what else did they not care about in the process of making it?  

It's good to be curious about the garment you are buying. It's good to notice details. 

Notice that, even in a dark navy worsted wool, a break in the stripes pattern would be visually jarring if not matched.

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