When a client comes to Button Stance, most of the time they already have an idea formed in their mind of what they would like us to make. Recently a new client wanted a blue suit formal enough for business, but not so dark that it would look incongruous if worn for daytime casual events such as a wedding or a day at the races. The style was to be single breasted with notched lapels and he provided photographs to illustrate what he had in mind.
Our job was first of all to turn this picture in his head into a real design with all the details fleshed out.
We discussed what weight the cloth should be, whether a lighter suit for Summer, or heavier and warmer, eventually choosing something that would suit our Scotland location: a 13 & 1/2 oz fabric weight perfect almost all year round except for the most scorching hot summer days, only a few of which we have between April and August. The Client's choice of Holland & Sherry Herringbone from the City of London collection, a luxurious superfine merino wool cloth with good crease recovery qualities, was perfect. Holland & Sherry, one of our most trusted suppliers, own their own fabric mill and were founded in London in 1836 by Stephen George Holland and Frederick Sherry; their Head Office still resides on Savile Row today.
As for the cut, we agreed on a classic elegant silhouette appropriate for an office, however, the client also wanted a suit that would also be appropriate for a cocktail evening, wedding guest outfit or any party where a touch smart appearance would make him stand out. A choice of brighter blue instead of dark navy would fulfil all those roles. We completed the design with classic jetted pockets, a notch lapel, 4 buttons at each cuff and a hidden flower loop because we like to add interesting and useful features in our suits.
We cut two pairs of flat-fronted trousers, one with side-adjusters and the other with belt loops. Trousers wear out faster than a jacket and having two pairs cut avoids the problem of wearing out the only pair you bought, then being unable to wear the odd-jacket with anything else because it looks wrong. As usual with bespoke tailoring, we added extra seam allowances so that the trousers can be let out if needed.
One of the advantages of commissioning a bespoke garment means you can have any details you like. When choosing a lining the sheer variety available can be as daunting as the outer fabric but the client homed in immediately on a burgundy one with a slight iridescence that changed from sumptuous maroon under evening light to vibrant red in daylight. This further helped to gave the differentiation he was after between sober business for daytime and classy when out for the evening.
Buttons are no less important. A suit's cloth can be jazzed up by bright and shiny colours or toned down by darker matte ones. We agreed on navy buffalo horn buttons to compliment the bright blue herringbone of the main cloth. There is also an extra flash of colour in the jacket's under-collar melton, its wine hue complimenting the main cloth very well while being discretely hidden under the top collar.
Note how many of the decisions we've discussed above were jointly taken between the tailor and client. Indeed, many clients aren't aware of the possibilities available and after perhaps initially feeling a little intimidated by the number of choices presented to them, begin to enjoy being something like a co-designer. We've talked above about where & when the client would be wearing his suit to help us decide on main cloth, lining, lapel notches, buttons, outside pockets & design of trousers. But there are also the number and style of internal pockets, trouser turn-ups and pleats, number of jacket buttons to fasten, roped or soft shoulders, throat-latches, waistcoats and watch-pockets and many other options too numerous to mention here.
For example, we can make an internal pocket a particular size if you wish to fit a particular item (phone, passport or cigar). Now, we don't recommend depending too much on phones; they come & go, your next one will almost certainly be different and besides, its thickness means when you button up a large rectangle is visible, pulling everything out of shape. But if you want it, we can give it to you.
Are you a musician? We can internally reinforce the shoulders to give extra protection from guitar straps; we can design the armscye for violinists & conductors who need a lot of arm movement. Ordering bespoke also means if you're so inclined, instead of a conventional suit jacket you can request a 4-pocket Safari jacket with a belt.
On this commission, our client came with a somewhat conventional brief for a business/casual suit, but the finished garment is so unique to him it can't be found anywhere else.
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