Not all jackets/suits are made the same way. We have been looking for a way to spell out the complex subject of Tailoring categorisation in a simple table and anyone interested in graduating from off-the-peg clothes hanging in a shop should understand what they are paying for, because language is often abused in the name of marketing.
We have seen companies passing their product off as bespoke when, for the price quoted, they can only be offering made-to-measure assembled on a machine, not by hand. When your measurements are taken for a garment made just for you, what's the difference? We have seen a tailor charging a fee for measuring which they will waive if you measure yourself, but even if you know how to take a half-back measurement (is it vertical, or horizontal, and from where to where?) you can't possibly measure yourself without twisting, making your measurement useless.
The main three categories are Bespoke, Made-to-Measure (MTM) and Ready-to-Wear (RTW, often called off-the-peg) in descending order of complexity, pricing and quality. Although you may find the occasional exception to our explanations below, for the purpose of this article we are focusing on fundamentals.
Taking inspiration from the engineering industry, three processes have been mapped out side-by-side, with the key features described and examples given. This way you should get a good idea of what's involved and which option works best for your budget, aspirations and the wardrobe.
Measurements:
Bespoke | MTM | RTW |
|---|---|---|
You meet the person who makes your garment and discuss your wishes in detail. More than 20 measurements are taken to account for every idiosyncrasy of your body. More might be required if the garment is complex but more does not always mean more accurate. | <20 measurements taken by a salesperson. | Sizes are defined in a standard grading chart. No measurements taken, you choose the nearest to your frame from the ones hanging up in the shop and accept it doesn't fit you perfectly. But you can wear it the same evening. |
Pattern:
Bespoke | MTM | RTW |
|---|---|---|
An individual paper pattern created for each client. Asymmetries, sleeve-pitch, physique and even posture is accounted for.
It is stored in-house with your name on it and can be reused next time. It gets perfected after each fitting. | A standard commercial 'block' is chosen from the clients height and build, then modified with the client's measurements. MTM is cut symmetrical; any asymmetry and sleeve-pitch are not catered for. There is no paper pattern and your measurements are not retained for future re-use, risking subsequent garments from the same tailor don't fit the same way. | A pattern made in a factory to fit a range of standard sizes. |
Fittings:
Bespoke | MTM | RTW |
Usually 2-3 fittings. Changes are marked during the fittings, to check the fit and account for body asymmetry. Changes to a design are possible (until a certain stage in the process). | Only 1 fitting on the day you collect the finished garment, to check the fit. If something isn't right an alteration will be offered, requiring an additional fitting when you return to collect. | No fittings, it's already hanging on the rail in the shop. You might be offered a simple alteration (to shorten trousers or take a jacket in) but nothing complex as it becomes costly for the vendor. A garment is made symmetrical, so if you have one shoulder lower than the other (and most of us do) expect drag lines on the fabric and a not-so-perfect sleeve pitch. |
Fabric:
Bespoke | MTM | RTW |
Choice of cloth is literally endless. Tailors can source fabrics from many mills, locally and overseas.
You will get expert advice on suitable options if you don't have a preference. All fabrics are natural, high quality and of reputable provenance. Lining will be premium quality and custom designs can be commissioned as well. | Choice varies (1-2 mills, sometimes more), normally a good selection available for most customers' needs. Cloth that is not in current stock can be sourced but at extra cost. Choice of linings will be more limited. | You cannot specify a fabric, just choose from what's hanging in the shop. Fabric is usually lower quality with limited choice of colour and pattern to keep RTW cost-effective. Wear and tear will show rapidly. Lining is almost always, polyester or some other synthetic. |
Customisation & Build-Quality:
Bespoke | MTM | RTW |
It's Bespoke tailoring you're buying: the whole thing is customised between you and the tailor, which means you are a co-designer. Jacket has a full or half floating canvas, which is made from natural quality material and pad stitched by hand. Generous seam allowances allow for alterations in case of future weight-gain. | You can choose from a predefined list of options, such as number of buttons, pocket style, vents, trouser pleats, cuffs, lining, lapel shape and width etc. Canvas may be made by hand (high-end only), but most high-street MTM will use machine-stitched and heat-fused. Minimal seam allowances. | No customisable options. Canvas, if used, will be fused; will not mould to your shape over time and the suit will be as durable. No seam allowances. |
Production Lead Time:
Bespoke | MTM | RTW |
50 to 70 hours of hand-work required from an experienced pattern cutter and a skilled tailor. Delivery on average 10-12 weeks. Buttonholes will be handmade (as all the finishing touches), stripes and checks matched. | 10 to 20 hours in production time; usually sent away to a remote factory. Delivery in 2-6 weeks for entry-level MTM; 4-12 weeks for high-end. Buttonholes are machine-stitched. | No waiting time (except for delivery time if bought online). Buttonholes are always machine-stitched, no hand-work at all. Patterns (stripes and checks) are not matched as it increases the production cost. |
Customer's Experience:
Bespoke | MTM | RTW |
Bespoke tailoring is turn-key i.e. it is handmade by the tailor you speak to. It is also a unique experience to be involved in the design process and getting an exclusive product that fits perfectly and no-one else will have. Looked after, a fully-bespoke garment can last for years. | You will be dealt with by a store owner or a salesman. Alternatively, it'll be an online form where you click the options you want and submit your own measurements. Quality of advice and service varies and the factory can also change the block so another suit from them doesn't fit as well as the first one. | Store salesman will assist with choosing the nearest size and arranging the alterations if you choose any. |
Purchase Process:
Bespoke | MTM | RTW |
Brick-and-mortar location or the customer’s home/office. Most tailors offer an after-sale care including dry cleaning, repair and alterations in case you lose or put weight on. Limited production capacity, hand-made nature and use of premium and durable materials means cost will always remain high. | Brick-and-mortar location and/or online sales. No after-sale care. No need to stock inventory, so floor space can be minimal, use of a remote factory. Lower price-point than bespoke of course, but larger than RTW. | Brick-and-mortar location and/or online sales. No after-sale care. Quick purchase and affordable but it's hard to expect a perfect fit and longevity of the item. Complex alterations might be required and their cost can be up to 50-100% of a jacket/suit's cost. |
As you can see from this summary above, all three options have their benefits. If you are just starting out on your sartorial journey and want to explore, having no preferences of your own yet, choosing a budget option is smart as this will give you the experience of selecting fabrics, patterns and colours. But - we've said this elsewhere on Button Stance Blog; 'fit is King' and once you are ready to step up, commissioning a bespoke garment is like going for a sixth gear when you thought you only had five.
If you can't find what you like or fits you, then let the professionals take care of it and get in touch with a tailor.
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